| We recently attended an inspiring seminar on Chablis conducted by the French Wine Society, so today we thought we would share some of the secrets from this famous region. The seminar was timely because we just received one incredibly delicious Premier Cru Chablis with great press, costing far less than one would ever imagine. |
The Lowdown on Chablis |
Chablis is a uniquely steely and dry white wine grown in the Burgundy region of North East France, made from 100% Chardonnay. It should never be confused with the generic “Chablis” one finds abused on the labels of cheap American jug wines of uncertain origin. |
| Chablis, while classified as part of Burgundy, is actually quite close to Champagne on the map. As a result of this very northern climate, Chablis is a wine in which vintage variation is quite significant. This means the quality (and quantities available) can change dramatically from year to year, so it's important to either know your vintages, or have a wine merchant whom you trust to know the difference. |
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“Chablis remains one of the great white wines of the world. It is sometimes overshadowed by the greater opulence of a fine Meursault or Corton-Charlemagne, but is has an individuality of its own that sets it apart from the great white burgundies of the Côte d'Or. There is a unique streak of steely acidity, a firm flintiness, and a mineral quality that is not found elsewhere in Burgundy.”
– Jancis Robinson, MW, “The Oxford Companion to Wine” |
The Chablis appellation has four ranks in its classification system. If you know your Chablis, you can skip this part. If not, here's a great primer. |
| Chablis Classifications |
| Petit Chablis: The lowliest of classifications; it's usually fresh and light, and fairly simple, with citrus and flower notes. Petit Chablis is a wine meant for quaffing as young as possible. It really cannot withstand aging, so if you see it in a wine merchant's shop please be make sure it's current vintage or you will very likely be disappointed. There isn't much of it imported into Massachusetts, so availability is somewhat limited. |
| Chablis: A more significant appellation, yet infuriatingly variable in quality, this wine is still about freshness. However, Chablis can age for up to five years which makes it more substantial than Petit Chablis. Chablis is generally a denser wine, with flinty notes. It's a perfect white wine to pair with seafood and fish. |
| Premier Cru Chablis: There are 40 vineyards qualifying for this appellation, of which eight have well known labels (Montée de Tonnerre, Fourchaume, Vaillons, Montmains, Vaudevey, Vaucoupin, Vosgros, and Les Fourneaux). The wines vary in taste according to the appellation, ranging from minerally, flinty wines all the way to round, dense and rich wines. |
Grand Cru Chablis: There are 7 elite vineyards which qualify for this exalted status. They are Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudesir. These wines can age for up to 25 years, depending upon the vintage. As one would expect, these wines have a hefty price tag, starting around $70/bottle. There are only a handful of Grand Cru producers imported into Massachusetts. We offer these wines on a special order basis. |
The Grand Cru Vineyards of Chablis
From left to right - Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles (around the house), Valmur, Les Clos, Blanchots and in the far distance across the Vallée de Brechain, the Premier Cru of Montée de Tonnerre. |
| The basic aromas of any youthful Chablis are citrus, honeysuckle, green apple, oyster shell, minerals, and lees. As a Chablis ages it develops more complex aromas of honey, beeswax, quince paste, dried apricots, warm brioche, and gingerbread. |
| We learned from a distinguished Chablis authority that younger, more lively Chablis should be decanted and served 30 minutes after removing it from the refrigerator, while older Chablis should never be decanted before drinking. |
The food pairing is relatively straightforward for Chablis. There are only two basic rules. Either use the wine to match the weight of your dish, or use it to cut through the fat of the dish. |
Matching the Weight Pairing Suggestions |
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Chablis |
Premier Cru |
Grand Cru |
| Goat cheese |
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| Shellfish and fish |
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| Bouillabaise |
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| Truffles |
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| Veal |
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| Fois Gras |
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| Snails |
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| Creamy and “smelly” cheeses |
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Cutting Through the Fat Pairing Suggestions |
| Lobster |
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| Fried chicken |
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| Fish and chips |
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| Creamy and “smelly” cheeses |
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| Scallops |
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| Smoked trout |
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| Deep fried smelt |
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Today we have on offer an exciting Premier Cru Chablis from the Vaillons appellation. We paired this wine with pan-seared scallops served with a lemon buerre blanc a few nights ago and we were overjoyed. It was a match made in heaven! |
| Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Vaillons 2009 |
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The Droin family has been in Chablis since at least 1547, when the first records indicate that Jehan Droin owned one parcel of vines in the Clos. Since then, the family has always owned property in the village and is among the oldest land owners in the area. Jean-Paul Droin took over the property in 1983 and helped to establish the property as among the best of the AOC. |
“This is a gorgeous wine from Droin.” |
Wine Cellars at Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Winery |
| “The 2009 Chablis Vaillons is wonderfully alive in the glass. A gorgeous, well-articulated bouquet resonates on the palate, where layers of crystalline fruit emerge with notable pedigree. The Vaillons shows terrific energy and focus all the way through to the finish. Hints of lemon peel, grapefruit and jasmine linger on the pointed finish. This is a gorgeous wine from Droin. The Vaillons was aged 20% in wood. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis.” |
Wine Advocate: 93 points |
$24.99/bottle or $239.90/12 pack case ($19.99/bottle) or just $19.99/bottle in a mixed case of wine. |
| P.S. |
If you enjoy high quality Chardonnay, this is definitely a wine to snap up. We have limited quantities on hand until the winery releases the last of its 50 cases in the next few months. For those of you who will fall in love this wine after tasting it, we will be taking pre-orders on its final shipment, due some time in March. You can place an order by responding to this email or just stop by the store and talk to one of our staff. |
